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Learning To Fly

It is essential to choose a suitable trainer as your first model. You may like the look of that quarter scale Spitfire kit taking pride of place in the model shop window, but it is not a practical proposition for a first model, or even a second! The typical power trainer will be a high wing arrangement, with sufficient stability to allow the model to fly 'hands-off' while the student thinks about what to do, and to be able to fly slowly enough to allow the student time to think.

A larger model (up to about 6 foot wingspan) has the advantage of being easier to see, and can also have an advantage in being smoother in flight, but requires more resources when building and repairing. Most trainers are of simple lines and construction both for ease of initial construction and to make any repairs simpler, but there is no reason why it should not have a scale-like appearance, subject to the constraints already described. Power models should have at least 3 functions: throttle, rudder and elevator, although provided the student is using the services of an instructor, there is no reason why a trainer should not have aileron control as well.

The undercarriage arrangement will usually be tricycle, rather than tail-dragger, as this makes ground handling easier. However, there is no reason why a taildragger should not be used if preferred. The engine should be easily accessible and preferably mounted upright or sideways. Inverted engines are useful when trying to hide them in a scale cowl but this can sometimes make starting more difficult than necessary. But I want to fly a glider! Should I build from scratch or buy a kit? Top | Model | Radio | Engine | Flying instruction Radio There is a huge range of radio equipment available, from simple 2-channel sets to multi-channel, multi-memory computer based sets. As a beginner you should be looking for at least a 4 or 6 channel radio set. If the budget allows, buy the 6 channel set; you can always add more servos, but it is not usually as easy to add extra channels and once you gain your wings you will soon find yourself making use of the extra facilities.

For the same reason, it is worth buying a set with as many extra facilities, such as rate switches, mixers or model memories, as possible: you don’t have to use them initially, but is far better to have them available when you are ready rather than having to upgrade your radio equipment. Any model shop should be able to supply you with a suitable package: it should have transmitter, receiver, at least 3 servos and NiCad battery packs and charger. Do not be tempted to buy a set which requires non-rechargeable batteries to be fitted into a battery box. These have 2 problems: firstly the risk of dirty contacts causing failure; secondly there is no reliable way of measuring the remaining charge in a pack so you must fit a new set every time you go flying or risk the batteries going flat mid-flight.

The size of engine is largely determined by the model you have picked - what you may have to decide is whether to go for a 2 stroke or 4 stroke engine. 2 strokes are less complicated mechanically and hence are generally cheaper; they also require less maintenance and have a higher specific.